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Frequently Asked Questions
Question:- Which 'Gauge 1' rail do I choose?
Answer:- This is where you start and you need to get it right. If you are trying to match some existing track that you purchased in the past, then the older code 200 is often chosen to match existing, although the newer code 180 will also join to it, and the tiny difference in rail height can easily be removed with a few strokes with a file. If you are new to Gauge 1 and have no previous track then the new code 180 would be the best choice, not only because of price, appearance and running qualities, but also because all future developments are being based around this rail section. If you are coming up from the smaller "00" or "0" scales, many still think of nickel silver as the best, but stainless steel would be a better choice and only slightly harder to cut. The picture here shows the different rail heights, or should I say, 'what difference', as you can see from this, there is virtually no difference. So those who have the older code 200 rail can easily join to the new code 180 rail, and take full advantage of all the new items available. In the centre, the brass code 200 bullhead rail. This is joined on the left via my lost wax brass fishplate, to the new code 180 stainless steel rail which has been rust treated. On the right is the new code 180 stainless steel rail joined via my new 20mm universal A.S.A. plastic fishplate.
Answer:- The existing 'Gauge 3' bullhead rail is as near to scale as you could want, I just do this rail in Stainless Steel only, and there are no plans to supply this in brass or nickel silver. The brass rail is available from the 'Gauge 3 Society' membership sales.
Question:- Is the Gauge 1 'Fine' track made to finescale standards?
Answer:- No. The use of the word 'Fine' for this track refers to the sleeper and chair design and size and not 'back to back' finescale wheel standards, or finescale check chairs measurements.
Question:- Where do I find out the details of the 'Fine' track?
Answer:- If you want to read about the development of the new 'Fine' or 'Finescale' track, please click here
Question:- Do you make 'Gauge 1' 'finescale standards' check chairs?
Answer:- No. You are going to have to use the normal ones and cut in half and trim.
Question:- Which sleeper unit best matches my existing track?
Answer:- If you want to match 'Tenmille' track, then 'Standard' track has the same size sleepers and thickness, and use the 3 bolt chair. If you want to match 'Peco', then the Fine track would be best, but they are not exactly the same. If you are relaying your main line for example, what most people would do is to use the old track (which is still serviceable) in the sidings.
Question:- What are the options if I want multi gauge track?
Answer:-
For Gauge 1/Gauge 3 dual gauge track you can either use 'Gauge 3'
ABS sleeper units and code 250 stainless steel rail, with the additional
3rd rail weld glued to the sleeper unit using the separate ABS chairs,
these are set to 'Gauge 1' standards using a roller gauge or my aluminium
track gauge. You could also use 'Gauge 1' 'Fine' or 'Standard' long
turnout sleepers cut to the required length and 3 running chairs weld
glued to the desired track gauges. As a cheaper option, you could
also use either 'Gauge 1' 'Fine' single or 'Standard' double sleeper units,
cut just beyond the 2nd chair, then an additional part sleeper unit weld
glued to the main cut sleepers.
For Gauge 1/Gauge 0/Narrow Gauge, use the ABS 'Gauge 1' 'Standard'
sleeper units of your choice with the addition of the ABS 'Gauge 1' chairs,
which are weld glued to the sleeper units to the desired gauge. To
give maximum flange depth use code 200 rail, and use the code 180
rail with the additional chair, as this chair sits slightly higher, the
smaller rail will compensation for this difference. You could also
use code 200 rail and arrange for this to be on the outside running rail
to give a slight super elevation.
Question:- Is gauge widened track worth it?
Answer:- The gauge widened track is moulded in a more expensive and better quality plastic, and is weldable (glueable) to the super elevation wedges if desired. Basically you will be able to run most Gauge 1 locos and stock around radiuses of 9 ft. and over, but the tighter the radius the more side friction on the wheels and the more risk of binding and derailment. So with gauge widened track, stock tends to run freer and does not slow up so much on the curves.
Question:- Should I use super elevation wedges?
Answer:- This depends on what type of running track you want to active. If you just want a county branch line with slow running stock, then only use super elevation for appearance sake. But if you want to run main line stock at any reasonable speed then super elevation tends to make the stock stick to the track rather than try to fly off, the main thing to remember is to make sure the super elevation is gently taken out over 2ft or so of track in the transition or on the straight. In any case the super elevation adds greatly to the appearance.
Question:- How many super elevation wedges do I use?
Answer:- I have found that placing a super elevation wedge under every 5th sleeper is sufficient. But you can use more if you wish.
Question:- I have had some fire damage to my track, how can I repair this?
Answer:- Up till now about the only way to repair fire damaged plastic sleepers is to remove the whole section of track and replace the affected sleepers, this can be annoying if this is in the middle of a length. But as I am the only manufacturer who uses A.B.S. plastic for the sleepers, it means the track no longer has to be lifted to carry out the repairs but can be done in situ. I do a kit which provides sufficient to replace 10 damaged sleeper units, in situ without the need to lift the track. The old damaged track is carefully removed, and the area swept or vacuumed to remove debris. The plain sleeper is pre-cut to the desired length and slide under the rail into position. In some cases you may need to remove the spacer bars. Cut the chairs in half in line with the centre of the rail, apply a small amount of weld glue to the sleeper unit each side of the rail and slide the chair halves into position to grip the rail, apply gentle pressure for about 20 -30 seconds. Repeat with the other chair. Remove any excess weld glue with an old polypropylene paint brush or piece of foam. JOB DONE!
Question:- Are instructions included?
Answer:- I supply free detailed track laying instructions upon request, and all individual items come with instructions. These can also be downloaded.